East Indian Split Pea Soup

A good split pea soup is one of winter's greatest pleasures.   My mom made it often when I was growing up and she still reigns as the Pea Soup (or Sea Poup, thanks Dad) Queen.  Hers used to be made with a meaty ham bone, but is now most often vegetarian, thick with sweet potato, celery, onions and carrot and spiced up with toasted cumin. At the Cafe, we've spiked our version with everything from pulled pork to maple sausage, always to good reviews.

Last week I was making shrimp curry for our buffet and wanted a soup to complement it.  Usually I make dhal, an East Indian dish often made with red lentils.  We had no lentils, but we did have lots of green split peas, and so this recipe was born.

This time last year: Cream of Valley Mushroom Soup

East Indian Split Pea Soup

You can serve this soup as is, or have fun topping it: I suggest a dollop of plain yogurt, a spoonful of mango chutney, some chopped cilantro, a few toasted cashews...


1 lb. Split Peas (Mom says yellow, I say green)
12 C. Water
1 T. Oil
1 T. Mustard Seeds
1 large Onion, diced
1 T. freshly grated Ginger
3 cloves Garlic, minced
1 t. Turmeric
2 t. ground Cumin
1 T. Salt
1 medium Sweet Potato, diced
1 large Potato, diced
2 large Carrots, diced
1 large handful Spinach, chopped (optional)
1 T. Garam Masala (a blend of sweet spices, EOS and Superstore have it)

In a large pot, bring the peas and water to a boil.  Reduce to a simmer and cook for about an hour, until the peas are mostly tender.  Meanwhile, heat a large frying pan over medium high heat and pour in the oil.  Add the mustard seeds.  They will toast and begin popping after a minute or so.  Reduce the heat to medium, then stir in the onion and cook until beginning to soften, about five minutes.  Add the ginger, garlic, turmeric, cumin and salt, and cook for a minute before adding the sweet potato, potato, and carrot.  Cook, stirring often, for five minutes, then shut off the heat.  When the split peas are almost tender, add the spice and vegetable mix to the pot.  Simmer for a half hour (the peas should mostly have fallen apart at this point), then check for salt and stir in the spinach and garam masala.

Longing for Spring Soup

Around these parts, spring doesn't feel too spring-y.  Although I've bundled up to dig around in my garden and all signs point to longer and warmer days, I'm still making roaring fires and pots of hearty soup.  This is one of my very favourite recipes, both at home and at the Cafe.  It has a very comforting, rustic, yet somehow exotic taste, as if the recipe had been passed down by my Italian grandmother (I don't have an Italian grandmother, but I like to pretend).  Obviously, this is a soup that wants the company of some crusty bread and a good grating of Parmesan cheese. 

Jacob's Cattle Bean and Vegetable Soup

You can substitute just about any dried bean for the Jacob's Cattle beans in this recipe.  

2 C. Dried Beans (we use Webster's Jacob's Cattle Beans)
16 C. Water
3 T. Olive Oil
1 large Onion, diced
3 stalks Celery, diced
2 medium Carrots, diced
2 cloves Garlic, minced
1/2 small Cabbage, shredded or diced
2 t. Salt
1 t. freshly ground Pepper
1/2 bunch Parsley, minced

Optional: 1-2 C. chopped cooked Ham, Sausage or Smoked Tofu


Bring beans and water to a boil in a large pot. Reduce heat to simmer and
cook for two hours, until beans are tender and falling apart. Add the
cabbage to the pot with the beans and continue to simmer until tender, about
20 minutes longer. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil over medium heat and saute
the onions, carrot, celery and garlic until softened and beginning to brown.
Add the sautéed vegetables to the beans, along with the salt, pepper, parsley and
optional meat or tofu. Taste for seasoning, and let simmer another 20 minutes
before serving.

A Saint Patrick's Day Birthday Feast

Plate No. 1

Tomorrow is my son's birthday.  He was born on St. Patrick's Day, six years ago.  It was cloudy and grey, there was snow in the woods, and David Myles was playing at the Cafe.  We loved the fact that there will always be a great party on his birthday.  He has plenty of Irish heritage, so bring on the jigs and reels!  And the Irish food.

We're celebrating tonight with Boiled Dinner with Grammie's Mayonnaise.  Doesn't that sound delicious? How about Corned Beef with Winter Vegetables and Sweet Mustard Sauce...better?   The sauce, my great-grandmother's recipe, is rich and vintage-ly scrumptious, and the rest of the meal can be too.  You've got to start with a decent piece of beef, and cook it patiently.   We buy our corned beef from Meadowbrook Meat Market, where they cure it themselves.  A 2 lb. chunk will serve about 6 people.  I'm not usually tempted by boiled vegetables, let alone meat, but you will have to trust me on this!

Corned Beef with Winter Vegetables and Sweet Mustard Sauce

2 lb. Corned Beef
10 Peppercorns
1 Bay Leaf
1 very small head Green Cabbage, cut into 6 wedges (leave the core in so it stays together)
3 large Carrots, peeled and cut into 1" chunks
1 small Turnip, peeled and cut into 2" chunks
6 small Potatoes, cut in half

In a large pot, place the beef, peppercorns and bay leaf.  Add enough water to cover and bring to a simmer over high heat.  Reduce to low, cover, and simmer for 3 hours, or until a fork can easily penetrate to the center.  Remove the beef and let it rest while you cook the vegetables (leave the cooking water in the pot).  Throw the cabbage, carrots, turnip and potatoes in, top up with water to cover and bring to a boil.  Reduce the heat and cook for about 30 minutes, until the vegetables are tender.  Slice the beef thinly against the grain and serve with the vegetables and Sweet Mustard Sauce.

Grammie's Mayonnaise (Sweet Mustard Sauce)

Don't ask me why it's called Mayonnaise

3 Egg Yolks
1 T. Flour
2 T. Sugar
1 t. Salt
2 t. Dry Mustard
1 1/4 C. Milk
1T. Cider Vinegar
3 T. Butter

In a small heavy pot, whisk the yolks, flour, sugar, salt and dry mustard.  When they are smooth, add the milk and vinegar and set over low heat.  Whisk frequently as the sauce heats and thickens, about ten minutes .  Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter.

Happy Saint Patrick's Day!

The Carrotiest Carrots

I've been holding out on you. I know where the tastiest carrots in the Valley are and I haven't told you yet. Let me just give you some clues. These carrots are organic. One of these farmers doesn't wear shoes unless he really has to. Another is the smiling face behind their beautiful veggie stand at the Wolfville Farmer's Market. And their son Nelson just opened a fabulous restaurant right behind Union Street Cafe called the Black Trumpet.

So the barefoot grower of tasty carrots is Henry Penner of Goldfinch Farms. He and and his wife Dora grow an amazing variety of vegetables on their farm on Willow Avenue, practically in the town of Berwick. From salsify to parsnips to a rainbow of peppers and tomatoes, squash, leeks that would set world records for their size, parsley root, spinach, even peanuts, they grow it all without chemicals and with, it would appear, a lot of love. 

Henry and Dora now own the Rising Sun Health Food Store in Berwick, and they stock a fridge with their own produce. Henry will gladly fill orders for larger quantities if you just ask. 

Sawler's carrots are also grown outside of Berwick and are widely available at grocery stores. They are the folks that produce a lot of the Valley's cabbage, turnips and onions and keep the kid's soccer program going! I love their trucks, retro green with red boxes. You are welcome to stop by their wholesale/retail outlet and stock up for winter (very inexpensively) at 189 Pleasant Valley Road. Just take Exit 15 off highway 101, head north, then take the very first right.

At the Cafe, we've been experimenting with Rainbow Carrots from Wilmar Acres. Marketed under the Country Magic label, they are a fun way to add colour and have great flavour, too!  Today we made this wonderful salad for the buffet.

Roasted Moroccan Carrot Salad

12 Carrots (use assorted colours if you can)

1 Red Onion, sliced

3 T. Olive Oil

1 t. Salt

2 T. Lemon Juice

1 clove Garlic, minced

1 t. Cumin, toasted in a small frying pan until fragrant

1/2 t. Sriracha Hot Sauce (or not)

1/4 t. Cinnamon

2 T. Parsley

2 t. Honey

Pomegranate Seeds and Chopped Cilantro for garnishing, optional

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.  Peel carrots, and cut into 1/2" pieces.  Place in a large bowl with the onion, olive oil and salt.  Toss to coat the vegetables and spread onto a baking sheet.  Roast for 35-40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until carrots have softened and are beginning to brown.  Meanwhile, whisk the  lemon juice, cumin, optional hot sauce, cinnamon, honey and parsley until combined.  When the carrots are ready, scrape them back in the bowl with all their oil and toss with the dressing while still warm.  Serve salad right away or chill until cold and serve, garnished with the pomegranate seeds and cilantro.

Honey Roasted Carrots

So simple, but so yummy. Try this for Christmas dinner!

2 lb. Carrots, peeled or just well washed

2 T. Butter, melted

2 T. Honey

Preheat oven to 400°. Chop the carrots into ½ inch chunks. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and drop the carrots in, then reduce the heat and cover for about ten minutes, until carrots are tender. Drain and combine in a 9x13 pan with the butter and honey. Roast uncovered for 30-45 minutes, until carrots are glazed and browned.

Hodge Podge

My Nova Scotia Garden in June

Do you know what Hodge Podge is? Then chances are, you are from Atlantic Canada. Though I'm not exactly sure where the exact culinary boundaries are, it's safe to say that my friends from Nova Scotia say "yum!" while those from elsewhere say "huh?". Hodge Podge is a wonderful perfectly seasonal mix of new-from-the-garden (or market) vegetables, napped with a creamy sauce. I think the rules are usually potatoes, carrots, peas and beans, although asparagus, spinach, onions and just about any fresh vegetable should be welcome. Last week, my dear friend Alexis killed her chickens and brought me one. I roasted it with fresh herbs, made my first batch of Hodge Podge of the year, and dug in. Bliss!

Hodge Podge serves 4-6
1 lb. New Potatoes, halved if large
1 lb. New Carrots, cut into thick slices
1/2 lb. Sugar Snap Peas, stems removed (or use 1/2 lb shelled peas)
1 lb. Green or Yellow Beans, stems removed and snapped in half
2 T. Butter
2 T. All-Purpose Flour
1 1/2 C. Milk
1/2 t. Salt
Pepper
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and drop in the potatoes and carrots. After 10 minutes, check the potatoes. When they are almost tender, add the beans. Simmer for another few minutes, then turn off the heat and add the peas. Leave while you make the sauce. Heat a large saucepan over medium high heat. Add the butter, and when it has melted, whisk in the flour. When it is smooth, slowly add the milk, whisking all the while. Continue cooking until mixture bubbles and thickens. Season with the salt and add pepper to taste. Drain the cooked vegetables, saving a little water for thinning. Add to the pot containing the sauce and combine thoroughly, adding cooking water if necessary.
Now that you have your basic Hodge Podge (try it like this first if you've never had it before) you can go crazy with variations. Try stirring in a couple tablespoons of pesto, or chopped fresh herbs. Add asparagus with the beans, or chopped spinach with the peas. If you grow garlic and have scapes to use up, chop them and add with the beans.
Best of all, cut a roasted chicken from your neighbour into serving pieces. Load up your plate with Hodge Podge, then top with a piece of chicken and a spoonful of the roasting juices from the pan.